With her debut as Creative Director, Veronica Leoni breathed “monumental minimalism” into Calvin Klein Collection for the brand’s first NYFW show in six years.
Calvin Klein Collection presented its Autumn/Winter 2025 collection in New York on February 7– a holiday for industry veterans and those of us with 90s mood boards.
Creative Director Veronica Leoni amassed a great deal of pressure leading up to this presentation. Not only was this her debut collection with the brand, but it was Calvin Klein Collection’s first presentation since 2018.
Upon its resurrection into the New York Fashion Week zeitgeist, Leoni set out to unite tradition and innovation. Leoni aimed to bring “Mr. Klein’s original vision and distinctive approach into the current day.” Her goal was palpable in the iconic CK One perfume bottle reimagined as a clutch.
Staying true to the brand’s minimalist DNA was no sweat for Leoni, who previously designed for Jil Sander, Céline, and The Row. Leoni expanded the definition of minimalism with this project. She called it “monumental minimalism.” Sharp suits practiced restraint but gave way to playfulness with elements of liquid drapery. It was purity without sacrificing self-expression.
A great designer builds a new proportion and alters our approach to dressing. Leoni epitomized this trait through tailoring–another key facet of Calvin Klein’s essence. Overall, silhouettes widened from 90s Calvin Klein, reflecting Leoni’s modern-day approach to Klein’s classic craftsmanship. Three shapes characterize the collection: lean and narrow, loose and cropped, and draping and enveloping. Structured, oversized capes and skirt suits with diagonal pinstripes suggested adding a sense of wonder to everyday dressing.
The naked white walls of Calvin Klein’s historic headquarters were the perfect canvas for Leoni’s ode to the house’s sensual legacy. Leoni proved she can keep that legacy alive–even in the winter, even through the corpwear lens. Departing from the slim 90s silhouette, the pieces did not grip the wearer but softly grazed against them. Strapless evening dresses and drapey jersey dresses brushed against the body enough to visualize the body’s contour. Leoni even paid homage to the quintessential Calvin Klein underwear via knitted henleys and sheer slips.
“My goal is to define an ultimate and definitive expression of monumental minimalism and pureness through shape and craft, bringing Mr. Klein’s original vision and distinctive approach into the current day.”
Veronica Leoni
Leoni also preserved the refined Calvin Klein color palette. Granite, moongrey, and black evoked urban life, while neutrals like porcelain, fudge, and off-white softened their edge. Offsetting these moments of control, Leoni threw color-curveballs of raspberry, citron, and barolo.
Perhaps the highly-anticipated show’s satisfactory response emerged from the successful marriage between the classic and the contemporary. Just as much as the designs, the event’s cast of characters echoed this ethos.
In black Calvin coats, Calvin Klein muses Kate Moss and Christy Turlington attended the occasion, symbolizing the brand’s rich history. In an oversized grey jacket, universal muse Kendall Jenner walked the runway, representing a new generation.
Tonne Goodman, former VP of advertising at Calvin Klein, was another seminal attendee. As a key player in establishing the brand’s visual heritage, Goodman remarked on the “waves of memories” the collection bestowed upon her.
Most importantly, Calvin Klein himself attended the show–his first in two decades. His presence solidifies a sense of Leoni’s respect for the brand’s founding legacy.
Leoni is not only one of the few women leading major fashion houses but the first female creative director in the brand’s nearly 60-year history. Her debut collection proposed a bright future for fashion–one that is tailored to the present while protecting an abundant heritage.
All imagery courtesy of Calvin Klein.
