New York Design: The Rise of Thuylâm Fashion Label - Mission

Launching Thuylâm: A Self-Portrait in Silk

By Ally Reavis.

Clothing brand Thuylâm honors Mikayla Tseng’s Vietnamese roots with timeless silhouettes made of silk.

At twenty-four, Mikayla Tseng just launched Thuylâm with a collection of timeless clothing designed and made in New York City. This debut is more than just another fashion label, though. It’s a deeply personal “rebirth” of herself, embodying her Vietnamese heritage and sophisticated, yet boyish, sense of style.

The label name comes from Tseng’s middle name, Thuylâm, meaning “little forest.” Little Forest is aptly the title of her first collection. Rooted in resilience, growth, and lineage, the collection is a tribute to her mother and aunts—each of whom bears a forest‑inspired name—and a metaphor for Tseng’s journey. “I’m still growing,” she said.

Building Thuylâm alone was “intimidating,” and, “financially a risk,” Tseng admitted. She credits her parents, who immigrated to America from Vietnam, for raising her with the self-starter spirit necessary to start a brand from scratch. 

“If you really want something and you work hard, you’ll get it,” she said. Tseng taught herself design, earning a degree in graphic design rather than fashion. 

“I’m glad I didn’t go to fashion school because I see a different side of fashion,” said Tseng. Marketing became a passion of hers and became central to developing Thuylâm. She embraced every detail of branding: from tags, fonts, and the logo to the tone of her brand voice.

“I’m glad I didn’t go to fashion school because I see a different side of fashion.”

Founder and Designer, Mikayla Tseng

She wanted to celebrate her Southeast Asian lineage in the collection, as it is a part of her, and the motivation that allowed her to fulfill her dream of starting the brand. Each piece is crafted from 100% silk, honoring Vietnam’s storied silk traditions. Organza and georgette orchid appliqués decorate delicate skirts. 

A sense of nostalgia inspired these subtle cultural touches. “When you wear these pieces, I hope you feel the memories they hold,” she said.

She also sought to fill a gap in her wardrobe with Thuylâm. Womenswear felt too feminine, but menswear felt ill-fitting. The trend cycle felt superficial. 

Creating outfits with her existing clothes was tedious. “I wanted pieces you could dress up or down,” she said. 

Tseng designed Thuylâm to simplify the process of getting dressed. Every item in Little Forest is intentional and made with care. The neutral-toned pieces, including the Reed Shorts and Silk Bone Tops, can be mixed and matched. With equal ease, they are suitable for running errands, attending meetings, and going out.

The pieces are soft and sophisticated, yet they also leave room for masculine styling and embrace rugged, raw edges. “They are made to be worn, loved, and passed down,” said Tseng.

Little Forest debuted on July 18, and Tseng’s hard work came to fruition. She successfully created a self-portrait in her clothes. “I bawled my eyes out when I showed my parents the final website. It was the best feeling—I can’t believe what I had in my head came together,” she said.

Launching a brand so entwined with her identity was an emotional challenge. “Coming out with Thuylâm was a very vulnerable process,” she said. “I’m sharing parts of myself with the world.”

Tseng envisions pop-ups in Europe, tailored trousers and jackets for fall/winter, and a community of customers who share her love for authentic, meaningful fashion. Growing from Little Forest, each new collection will sprout from the same soil of identity and intention.

Thuylâm’s debut reminds us that clothing crafted with vulnerability is felt by the wearer. “Thuylâm is seriously just me: who I am and how I grew up,” Tseng said.

Photos by Nate Jerome. All images courtesy of Thuylâm.