With a new exhibition in Paris, renowned British milliner Stephen Jones speaks to Mission about his illustrious career.
“Oh mon chapeau!” exclaims Jones when asked to describe his upcoming exhibition, Chapeau d’Artiste. The British milliner has, indisputably, been at the zenith of the international hat-making industry for over four decades now, an accomplishment which more than merits a showing devoted to his idiosyncratic creations. Housed by Paris’ Palais Galliera, it is their first exhibition which has honed in on hats since 1984, and what better way to break this standstill than to honor the enduring creativity of Stephen Jones?
The exhibition in question charts the milliner’s extraordinary life and creative career thus far – from his upbringing in Wirral and his studies at Central Saint Martins during the punk era, to his time as a “Blitz Kid”, submersed in London’s New Romantic subcultural movement. It also offers an insight into the establishment of his eponymous millinery salon in 1980 and the close collaborative relationships he has cultivated with luxury fashion houses such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alaïa and Comme des Garcons since. Known for their visionary and meticulous craftsmanship, his bespoke creations have adorned the heads of stars such as David Bowie, Diana, Princess of Wales and Lady Gaga.
The exhibition makes it evident that despite the years that have ensued since he first entered the fashion scene, Jones’ sheer skill, sociability and imaginative aptitude have not waned in the slightest, even if sartorial tastes have. “Women still want to look glamorous, sexy, modest or chic and that’s the same for now as it was years ago,” he tells Mission, “However the world is very different because of communications and my hat designs are just hats sometimes, which are to communicate as well as to be worn.”
There is little as far as millinery is concerned, that Jones cannot turn his hand to. Be that a simple beret, a flamboyant fascinator or a fantastical haute couture creation, each exquisitely crafted piece has its own unique story to tell. His work under the creative direction of John Galliano is amongst his most memorable, having first worked with the designer on his Fall 1994 Collection.
Their dynamic partnership has continued right up to the present day, (Jones’ headpieces accompanied Galliano’s designs at the Maison Margiela Artisanal show last January) and has resulted in friendship, an appreciation for storytelling and a strong shared vision. “John and I speak the same language,” says Jones, “we’re roughly the same age and we went to the same art school.
Even though we are very different people, those things have joined us together, as well as an appreciation of beauty and culture.” The milliner also worked with Galliano while he was at the helm of Dior from 1996-2011, years in which many of the most iconic moments in fashion history have taken place. Jones’s personal favourite? “It has to be Erin O’Connor dressed as Nefertiti at the Dior Spring 2004 Haute Couture Show.”
“For me, Dior was always the ultimate symbol of Fashion,” “I work with many different departments within the house of Dior, I also work within the Dior Gallerie, which showcases all of Christian Dior’s designs dating from 1946.”
Now, Stephen Jones continues to work closely with Dior, making headpieces to complement the collections of creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuiri (womenswear) and Kim Jones, (menswear). As the French House’s Creative Director of Hats, he reflects on his relationship with the brand, “For me, Dior was always the ultimate symbol of Fashion,” “I work with many different departments within the house of Dior, I also work within the Dior Gallerie, which showcases all of Christian Dior’s designs dating from 1946.”
Chapeau d’Artiste will celebrate the designer’s “bold energy and boundless creativity” by showcasing over 50 full designer ensembles alongside almost 200 hats and a selection of Jones’ archival preparatory drawings and photographs. It will also pay homage to the designer’s close ties with “Paris, Parisian culture and couture as well as the transformative impact that his time in Paris has had on his work.”
“There is no aspect of Paris that hasn’t shaped me —from the smell of the Metro to Eiffel Tower twinkling on the hour.”
French Fashion Houses and Paris itself have always had a significant influence on Jones and his hatmaking. “It was always the dream of Paris that was inspirational to me, even before I went there, as it is for many people in the Fashion world,” he recalls, “There is no aspect of Paris that hasn’t shaped me —from the smell of the Metro to Eiffel Tower twinkling on the hour.”
Chapeau d’Artiste is set to embody the beauty and the abundance of inspiration that Paris has offered Jones. The featured hats will, according to the witty distinguished milliner, epitomise the “style, status and glamour” his creations have become synonymous with. Parisians are in for a treat.
Stephen Jones, Chapeaux d’Artiste will be at the Palais Galliera from 19 October 2024 to 16 March 2025. Home page image Stephen Jones, 2024 © Koto Bolofo. Inside image of Stephen Jones in Blitz, 1979 © Peter Ashworth.
