An upcycling studio’s approach to reusing existing garments to better the planet.
How did the idea for Murmaid come about?
Murmaid started as a group of artists and designers having a conversation about sustainability. Through deconstruction, textiles, weavings, embroideries, dyes and stitching we unconsciously started to up-cycle materials and give them a new life. Interacting with each other and working collectively we learn how to select, repair, transform and build out of waste. We studied this word a lot and what it really means in our consumerist society. We see its process as symbolic of rebirth and renewal. We operate in a cyclical manner: with the reintegration of garments in the process of creation.
What are the core values that drive your brand?
At the heart of our brand are three core values: sustainability, craftsmanship, and innovation. Sustainability: We are deeply committed to reducing fashion’s environmental impact. By up-cycling vintage garments and utilizing deadstock fabrics, we give new life to materials that would otherwise contribute to waste. This approach not only minimizes our carbon footprint but also champions a more responsible and mindful consumption pattern. Our customers can wear our pieces knowing they are making a positive impact on the planet.
Craftsmanship: Every piece we create is a testament to the skill and artistry of our artisans. We take pride in our meticulous attention to detail and the high level of craftsmanship that goes into each item. Our designs are not just about aesthetics; they embody the dedication and passion of the hands that create them. We employ traditional textile techniques, ensuring that each piece is unique and carries the essence of timeless luxury.
Innovation: Innovation is at the core of our design philosophy. By blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, we create pieces that are both modern and timeless. We constantly explore new ways to elevate the potential of up-cycled materials, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in sustainable fashion. This innovative spirit ensures that our collections remain fresh, exciting, and relevant in the ever-evolving luxury market.
Our values stemmed from an approach to justify ourselves as creatives and confronting the fact that there is enough waste in the world, and no, the world doesn’t need another hoodie. We wanted to create a space where we could pursue our creative endeavors and truly be 100% sustainable, also creating a work environment that cultivates community and creativity.
Why and for how long have you been based in Paris?
Murmaid was founded by two friends that graduated together from Parsons university in Paris. Being in Paris allows us to be at the epicenter of the luxury industry, surrounded by world-renowned artisans, designers, and cultural institutions.
Paris is great by attracting a global audience, giving us the opportunity to connect with discerning customers, industry leaders, and fellow creatives from all over the world. This cosmopolitan environment is essential for our brand, as it aligns perfectly with our values of sustainability, craftsmanship, and innovation.
The team started as friends from school which helped us create a safe and special space very different from the experience we had by interning in other brands from the industry. Since everyone in the team is a designer our process is very collaborative and always changing, we all played part of the whole process of producing a garment, and we had to trust each other a lot since design decisions were made by all of us instead of having a hierarchy. Before starting the brand, we worked in fashion houses, and it was imperative for us that we didn’t perpetrate the cliche fashion toxicity of competition, gender, sizing and even hierarchy. We started in a small space in the 9eme and moved to a big studio in the 12eme. It will be 3 years in August.
Could you describe your cyclical design process?
Our design process is very relative to the project we are working on. Sometimes we receive vintage or unsold items and we work from deconstructing them and using the scraps for weavings or embroidery; when we work from the materials, the inspiration comes from them and we experience the with silhouette and texture. Other times, we work from a concept and have the absolute rule to not work from fashion references. We create our own images during research or make textile manipulations or take art references, then we go sourcing materials at vintage shops and markets. Our studio is a beautiful chaos because we keep all materials, and we re-integrate them into different projects and designs.
What specific craftsmanship and sustainable practices do you employ?
Some of the most important techniques we use: Collage: We use scraps of our studio to cut out stripes that we then hand-stitch on a surface. The strips serve as pencils or pens, allowing us to draw various figures on the fabric.
Weaving: method of textile production in which two different sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. We use scraps from our atelier as threads and we weave directly with waste. We also source some threads and yarns from a warehouse that sells deadstock materials from brands by kilo in Paris.
Patchwork: We cut defective existing pieces into squares and rectangles of similar sizes and then stitch them together creating big panels of new textiles.
Embroidery: Through different hand-made techniques we fix and transform existing pieces of fabric and give them a new life.
Dyes: Through Japanese dyeing techniques such as Shibori we add new depths, colors and shapes to our fabrics.
Crochet: With this technique we add another dimension to our seams and sometimes we use it as a finishing on its own.
What is your purpose and intention with Murmaid?
Our creative process is stimulated by existing materials. We get inspiration from what is damaged, stained or old and we deconstruct, dye, embroider, transform and rebuild a completely new thing.Our purpose is that everything gets injected right into society and the least possible matter is lost. Our input to the fashion industry comes from re-inventing existing materials and a philosophy of life of consuming less and respecting our planet.
Who is your ideal customer/client?
Our ideal customer is a discerning, eco-conscious individual who values both sustainability and luxury. They are often trendsetters, not followers, and appreciate unique, one-of-a-kind pieces that tell a story. These customers are passionate about reducing waste and are committed to ethical fashion choices, seeking products that align with their values of environmental responsibility. They are typically well-informed about fashion and sustainability, and they prefer to invest in high-quality items that have a minimal environmental impact.
In addition to their love for sustainable fashion, our ideal clients are collectors at heart. They cherish the art of collecting unique objects, be it rare fashion pieces, vintage items, or beautifully crafted accessories. They appreciate the craftsmanship and creativity involved in up-cycling, recognizing the value in transforming pre-loved materials into new, luxurious creations. Each item they collect is not just a piece of fashion but a treasured artifact with its own history and character.
In essence, our ideal customer is someone who sees fashion as an extension of their values, choosing to make a statement with their purchases that luxury and sustainability can go hand in hand, all while adding to their collection of meaningful, artful objects.
Where do you see Murmaid placed in the industry, and the future of Murmaid?
We are radical and ambitious, we look forward to the day that our brand is recognized by its originality and the sustainable part is just a plus. Our utopian view is to be trailblazers of sustainable design, and for that to just become the way things are made and remade. If we want to evolve as a species, we need to evolve our values and practices of craft and consumption.
We place ourselves in the luxury sector, as our atelier is in Paris and we only make 1/1 pieces that are 100% crafted in-house and hand-made. We were trained in university in haute couture, and we channel those skills to up-cycle. At Murmaid, we envision a future where our brand is at the forefront of the luxury up-cycling movement, setting new standards for sustainability, craftsmanship, and innovation in both fashion and furniture design. The fashion industry retail system has to evolve in order to remain relevant and we think our pieces are the very beginning of a movement that recognizes craftsmanship, time, exclusivity and uniqueness. A lot is going to change for fashion and we are confident in our vision as the future. Keep watching us cause this is just the beginning.
All imagery courtesy of Murmaid.
