From sharp feminine tailoring at Dior to a flamboyant play on the classic tweed suit at Chanel, we’ve put together a list of the most noteworthy takeaways from Couture SS21.
This year couture designers faced a particularly arduous task, proving that the model is as strong (and warranted) as ever, post a world-halting, tracksuit-embracing pandemic. But the designers rose to the task. Not only did this season prove that thoughtful, intricate design is as important as ever (particularly in a fast fashion consumed world), but served as the escapist, flamboyant fantasy we didn’t know we needed.
Scroll down for five key takeaways from Couture SS22.
1. Diversity ruled the runway at Valentino.
The importance of inclusion was the takeaway from this season’s Valentino runway. Models’ size and age range varied considerably, and the clothes looked all the better for it. Silver tendrils reflected the sparkle of ubiquitous sequins, while older men rocked longline coats and baggy grandad trousers (no pun intended.)
2. Corsetry is back
In contrast to the varying shapes and sizes exhibited on Valentino’s refreshingly representative runway, Glen Martins’ Jean-Paul Gaultier guest appearance was all tiny waists and pronounced hips. Both evident and invisible, corsetry created an hourglass shape on each model, sometimes atop a giant skirt of rosettes. Ronald Van der Kemp, Schiaparelli, and Valentino also accentuated waist-hip ratios via structured dresses, while Dior put a feminine spin on trouser and skirt suits, with jackets tailored in at the waist and jutting out sharply at the hip.
3. Wearable gold sculptures steal the show at Schiaparelli.
Schiaparelli’s artful catwalk was infused with gold sculptures hanging from ears, climbing branch-like up models’ arms, and embracing breasts. The solar system also played a significant role, with symbols representing planets adorning dresses spattered with glitter stars, sun crowns sat atop heads, and round gold rings representing the milky way hovered mid-air around models’ shoulder blades. The madonna-style cone bra is also back on both the runway and the front row (on actress of the moment Julia Fox.)
4. Chanel stayed true to its modus operandi.
This season, Virginie Viard stayed true to Chanel’s classic baseline, signified from the outset when Princess Charlotte Casiraghi opened the show galloping down the runway on a horse. The brands famous classic tweed skirt suits were the defining feature, with various spins on 50’s classic keeping things interesting: sleeves made up of feathers adorned a belted tweed dress, and skirts with just one button at waist level were left open to reveal more interesting (or revealing) slip dresses.
5. There was a bridal style for everyone.
This season’s bridal offering varied from tulle-fuelled mayhem at JPG to Chanel’s more traditional bedazzled tulle dress and flower crown combo. Schiaparelli’s colossally wide-brimmed hat and sculpted gold bra took the crown for the most outrageous look, while Dior churned out impeccably tailored classic skirt suit and trouser suit combos for the no-nonsense bride.
Images courtesy of Dior and Chanel.
