Ancora, Again: A Review of Sabato De Sarno’s New Menswear offering for Gucci. - Mission

Ancora, Again: A Review of Sabato De Sarno’s New Menswear offering for Gucci.

By Ally Reavis.

For his second collection at Gucci, creative director Sabato De Sarno took a unique approach: mirroring his first collection.

The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection is a continuation of the ancora storyline and a carefully tailored, joyful experience.

Gucci’s Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show at Milan’s Fonderia Carlo Macchi might feel familiar, and it should. As part of his debut Gucci collection in Sept., Gucci’s creative director established ancora. He defines ancora as a desiring “again” in Italian. His second show with Gucci answered that desire.

The AW24 menswear’ show gracefully echoed his women’s debut Spring Summer 2024 show. Being a continuation of the narrative he began in Sept. The clothes, sleek set design, Mark Ronson-directed soundtrack, and casting also mirrored the debut show. 

De Sarno’s feel of his initial womenswear collection was exhibited through a menswear lens for his debut menswear collection. And previous women’s short-shorts were now mens tailored pants. Identically platform loafers appeared as rubber-soled creepers. 

And even more direct repeats included wide jeans, sailor-style collars covered in crystals, navy zip-up Harrington jackets, and striped python outerwear. In similar fashion De Sarno also reintroduced the crepe mini-dresses as elongated jackets. 

Formalwear was principal in this collection. Double-breasted jackets took center stage in two silhouettes. One, close-fitting with cropped pants. And the second silhouette being more relaxed, frequently paired with asymmetrical ties. Pieces were carefully tailored, forming structured lines and shapes. And it is evident that De Sarno’s prospect for Gucci is one of distinct refinement.

Aligning with De Sarno’s vision of a modern aesthetic for Gucci, the GG motif took on a new form. The monogram is now slightly offset with a drop shadow, shown on suits and slender scarfs. 

Gucci Rosso, the creative director’s “It” color that stole the spotlight in his Spring 2024 show, materialized again at the men’s show. Leather bags, gloves, and monogram suits assumed this passionate red. Flashes of bright green also emerged this season in leather bags, leather gloves, and a bomber jacket.

Ancora is a “story of everything,’ De Sarno stated. And that story is “expressed through joy this time.” Gucci’s menswear collection is a cheerful testament to the House’s historic elegance.