From Balenciaga to Chanel, we’ve reviewed the most noteworthy Pre-Fall 2022 shows.
In-person fashion shows are finally back following numerous covid-induced lockdowns, bringing with them both nostalgia for the past and hope for the future. We looked at the Pre-Fall 2022 menswear and womenswear shows and put the highlights together, from Moschino’s remastered trip down memory lane to Balenciaga’s ’90s throwback.
Chanel: Metropolitan Magic in Paris
Virginie Viard showcased this season’s Métiers d’Art collection at Le19M, a building designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti.
The facade’s organic grid-like structure was echoed in the structured tweed pockets adorning coats and blazers. Three-dimensional knits dominated, while logos embellished floral tops, cardigans, and trousers. The color palette was bold, including autumnal colors such as wine-red, pink, and gold.
Maison Margiela: Military Dressing Is Back
Military Uniforms were the focus of MM6’s design collective this season. Martin Margiela underlined versatility and modularity via sharp tailoring and uniform dressing.
Jackets were cut with two holes underneath the arms, allowing the models to wear them like vests, knits had holes at the hips so hands could slip through into trousers’ pockets, and nylon was used to lift blazers and coats to create new, bolder structures. Pinstripe patterns ruled the collection, as well as oversized, cozy knits. As always, Margiela proved that fashion is getting bolder and less conventional.
Balenciaga: A throwback to the ’90s
For this pre-collection, Demna (the creative director has dropped the Gvasalia) appeared to feel nostalgic for a time where everyone wore was black relished coolness—‘the 90s.
The collection consisted of puffer-coats, black silhouettes, slouchy pants, flared raver jeans, crop tops, and a slew of full denim looks, a nod to both original ’90s kids and Gen Z’s revival of the era. “The strongest message for me is to be able to bring things back,” said Demna in the press release.
Chloé: Minimalistic elegance
Gabriela Hearst continued her commitment to lower environmental damage and positive social impact for Chloé’s Pre-Fall collection, using recycled cashmere, denim, and naturally dyed fabrics.
Traditional femininity was expressed through floral prints, ruffles, lace, and long dresses, later hardened by a grey military suit. According to the press release, “nature has been a guiding principle in the collection, inspiring details such as the floral embroidery that adorns the winged sleeves of coats cut from lower impact wool gabardine, velvet corduroy, and leather.”
Moschino: A trip down memory lane, remastered
Jeremy Scott combined menswear and womenswear for Pre-Fall 2022 with a collection inspired by sixties sci-fi cinema and dystopian universes.
Militaristic elements dominated the collection via double-breasted dresses and jackets. Inspired by the 1971 dystopian crime film A Clockwork Orange, bowler hats made an appearance in dyed lavender, tangerine, and space-age blue. Chevrons and stripes made an appearance, adorning vintage airline liveries, bustier tops, and square-shouldered frocks. “It’s a fantastical homage to the way-back-when placed in the actuality of the now, and shellacked in love,” read the show notes.
Images courtesy of Moschino and Chloe.
